Period Hair - The Edwardian Era (1901 - 1914)

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After Queen Victoria died in 1901, her eldest son, Edward VII, ascended to the throne. He took over on January 22nd 1901, but his coronation wasn't until August 9th 1902, Royal.uk said. This became the start of the Edwardian era, which lasted until 1914. This is the last era to be named after a reigning monarch. Although King Edward VII was succeeded after his death in 1910 by his son George V, this era "is considered to have ended at the outbreak of the First World War in 1914". (Pbs, no date).

Figure 1 - King Edward VII (Prahl, A. 2019)

Many different events happened during this era. In 1903, in America, the infamous Wright Brothers (Orville and Wilbur Wright) made "the first successful flight in history of a self-propelled, heavier-than-air aircraft." (History, 2009). 

Figure 2 - The Wright Brothers (Meares, H. 2019)

They experimented for many years, creating new aircrafts bigger and better than the last. By 1908, they were able to produce an aircraft that was able to fly for one hour at a time (though only at 40 miles per hour). This was sold to the U.S. Army. They received $25,000 from this, and only a month later, they were signing a contract with a group of French investors, who wanted to build and sell these aircrafts. (Crouch, T.D. no date). 

Figure 3 - The Wright Brothers: The Flyer II 1904 (Wright-brothers, no date)

In 1903 in Britain, the Women's Social and Political Union (WSPU) was founded by Emmeline Pankhurst (1858 - 1928). She originally founded the Women's Franchise League with her husband Richard Pankhurst (1825 - 1898) in 1889. Their aim was to gain the woman's right to vote. (Hist259, no date).

Figure 4 - Emmeline Pankhurst (Hist259, no date)

Emmeline grew up with parents who supported women's suffrage, and they were both abolitionists, so it makes sense that she would go on to become one of the main leaders of the suffrage movement. In fact, her mother took her to her first suffrage meeting when she was just 14. (Biography, 2018). She was very passionate about the women's right to vote, she was jailed numerous times and even went on hunger strikes for the cause. 

Figure 5 - Gibson Girl by Charles Dana Gibson (Wikiwand, no date)

Every generation has their ideals on what the perfect woman should look like. In the late Victorian through to the Edwardian Era, this is what is known as the Gibson Girl. An artist called Charles Dana Gibson (1867 - 1944) created illustrations that became famous around the world, one of which can be seen in figure 5. The Gibson Girl was seen to be tall and slender, she was a voluptuous woman who introduced the hourglass torso shape. She would wear her hair piled high in a pompadour or a chignon. (Bulo, K. 2018). 

Figure 6 - Gibson Girl Illustration (Bulo, K. 2018)

Many women wanted to pose for these illustrations, including his wife, Irene Langhorne. (Bulo, K. 2018). Other famous names that posed for him were Camille Clifford, a Belgian-born actress, and supermodel of the day, Evelyn Nesbit. 

Figure 7 - Camille Clifford (Smith, S. no date)

Figure 8 - Evelyn Nesbit (Heichelbech, R. no date)

Setting the wig

To set the wig, rollers were placed in a circular motion around the head, all rolled inwards. However, the first row at the front of the head were placed at an angle to create a side part (an example of a deep side part in this style can be seen in figure 5). Two little sections were left out at the front to create some small kiss curls, which was more of a Gibson Girl version of the style.


Figure 9 - Edwardian Gibson Girl wet set (Brown, J. 2020)

Figure 10 - Edwardian Gibson Girl wet set (Brown, J. 2020)

Figure 11 - Edwardian Gibson Girl wet set (Brown, J. 2020)

A circular section at the back of the head was put into a ponytail and then into four rollers. This could be used to create either a chignon or curls piled at the back of the head.


Styling the wig

Figure 12 - Edwardian Gibson Girl styled (Brown, J. 2020)

Figure 13 - Edwardian Gibson Girl styled (Brown, J. 2020)

Figure 14 - Edwardian Gibson Girl styled (Brown, J. 2020)

To create the style, the front rollers were taken out and back-brushed to give some height. The rollers at the back of the head and in the ponytail were then taken out to great the many curls. 

This style was found to be relatively simple. The main issue was getting the pompadour shape to look nice and it took a little playing around with. More back-brushing could be done for some extra height.


Setting the wig - Attempt 2

The wig was set the same as the first attempt, with the exception of the kiss curl sections, as this was aimed to be more of a suffragette style.

Figure 15 - Edwardian wet set attempt 2 (Brown, J. 2020)

Figure 16 - Edwardian wet set attempt 2 (Brown, J. 2020)

Figure 17 - Edwardian wet set attempt 2 (Brown, J. 2020)

Figure 18 - Edwardian wet set attempt 2 (Brown, J. 2020)

Styling the wig - Attempt 2

Figure 19 - Edwardian styled attempt 2 (Brown, J. 2020)
Figure 20 - Edwardian styled attempt 2 (Brown, J. 2020)

Figure 21 - Edwardian styled attempt 2 (Brown, J. 2020)

Figure 22 - Edwardian styled attempt 2 (Brown, J. 2020)

This second attempt came out better than the first, however the pompadour shape is still slightly off. More back-brushing was done this time and it definitely helped the shape. The detail in the back of the style is a lot more refined and done a lot more neatly. It is again, slightly off centre so this needs to be improved.


Final Images

Figure 23 - Edwardian Final Images (Brown, J. 2020)

Figure 24 - Edwardian Final Images (Brown, J. 2020)

Figure 25 - Edwardian Final Images (Brown, J. 2020)

Figure 26 - Edwardian Final Images (Brown, J. 2020)

-Jess


References:

  • Bulo, K. (2018) The Gibson Girl: The turn of the century's "ideal" woman, independent and feminine. Available from https://www.thevintagenews.com/2018/03/01/gibson-girl/ [Accessed 18/10/2020].
  • Crouch, T.D. (no date) Wright Brothers. Available from https://www.britannica.com/biography/Wright-brothers [Accessed 16/10/2020].
  • Edwardian Life: Royalty and Empire. (no date) Available from https://www.pbs.org/manorhouse/edwardianlife/royalty.html#:~:text=The%20Edwardian%20era%20(1901%2D1914,First%20World%20War%20in%201914. [Accessed 15/10/2020].
  • Edward VII (r.1901-1910) (no date) Available from https://www.royal.uk/edward-vii#:~:text=Edward%20was%2059%20when%20he,which%20required%20an%20emergency%20operation. [Accessed 15/10/2020].
  • Emmeline Pankhurst. (2018) Available from https://www.biography.com/activist/emmeline-pankhurst [Accessed 17/10/2020].
  • First Airplane Flies. (2009) Available from https://www.history.com/this-day-in-history/first-airplane-flies [Accessed 16/10/2020].
  • Women's Franchise League 1889 - 1903. (no date) Available from http://hist259.web.unc.edu/womensfranchiseleague/ [Accessed 17/10/2020].

Bibliography:

  • Bartley, P. (2002) Emmeline Pankhurst. East Sussex, Psychology Press.
  • Charles Dana Gibson. (no date) Available from https://www.illustrationhistory.org/artists/charles-dana-gibson [Accessed 18/10/2020].
  • Dame Millicent Garrett Fawcett. (no date) Available from https://www.britannica.com/biography/Millicent-Fawcett [Accessed 17/10/2020].
  • Dyhouse, C. (2012) Girls growing up in late Victorian and Edwardian England. (Vol. 14) Oxfordshire, Routledge.
  • Edwardian Era. (no date) Available from https://www.britannica.com/topic/Edwardian-era [Accessed 15/10/2020].
  • Edwardian Period. (no date) Available from https://www.dictionary.com/browse/edwardian-period [Accessed 15/10/2020].
  • Edwardian Period 1901 - 1910. (no date) Available from https://www.intriguing-history.com/periods-history/edwardian-period/ [Accessed 15/10/2020].
  • Edwardian Timeline. (no date) Available from https://bitaboutbritain.com/edwardian-timeline/ [Accessed 15/10/2020].
  • Emily Davison (1872 - 1913). (no date) Available from http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/historic_figures/davison_emily.shtml [Accessed 16/10/2020].
  • Emmeline Pankhurst (1858 - 1928). (no date) Available from http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/historic_figures/pankhurst_emmeline.shtml [Accessed 17/10/2020].
  • Emmeline Pankhurst. (no date) Available from https://www.britannica.com/biography/Emmeline-Pankhurst [Accessed 17/10/2020].
  • Gates, B.T. (1998) Kindred Nature: Victorian and Edwardian Women embrace the living world. Chicago, University of Chicago Press.
  • George V. (no date) Available from https://www.britannica.com/biography/George-V-king-of-United-Kingdom [Accessed 15/10/2020].
  • Gernsheim, A. (1981) Victorian and Edwardian fashion: a photographic survey. Courier Massachusetts, Corporation.
  • History. (no date) Available from http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/british/timeline/worldwars_timeline_noflash.shtml#top [Accessed 17/10/2020]. 
  • Jakab, P.L. (2014) Visions of a flying machine: The Wright Brothers and the process of invention. Washington, Smithsonian Institution.
  • James. (2014) Camille Clifford (1885 - 1971), Gibson Girl - A Trio of Postcards. Available from https://darklanecreative.com/camille-clifford-1885-1971-gibson-girl-a-trio-of-postcards-2/ [Accessed 18/10/2020].
  • Key Dates. (no dates) Available from https://www.parliament.uk/about/living-heritage/transformingsociety/electionsvoting/womenvote/keydates/ [Accessed 16/10/2020].
  • Lawing, C. (2010) Irene Langhorne Gibson (1873 - 1956). Available from https://www.encyclopediavirginia.org/Gibson_Irene_Langhorne_1873-1956 [Accessed 18/10/2020].
  • Magee, G.B. (1997) Technological divergence in a continuous flow production industry: American and British paper making in the late Victorian and Edwardian era. Business History 39 (1) pp.21 - 46.
  • McCullough, D. (2015) The Wright Brothers. New York, Simon and Schuster.
  • Ottewill, R. (2016) ‘Skilful and Industrious’: Women and Congregationalism in Edwardian Hampshire 1901–1914. Family & Community History, 19(1) pp.50-62.
  • Pankhurst, E. (1914) My own story. England, Hearst's international library company.
  • Pankhurst, E. (2020) Freedom or death. Glasgow, Good Press.
  • Pankhurst, E.S. (2013) The Suffrage Movement: An Intimate Account of Persons and Ideals-With an Introduction by Dr Richard Pankhurst. Worcestershire, Read Books Ltd.
  • Simkin, J. (1997) Political Crisis in Britain: 1910 - 1914. Available from https://spartacus-educational.com/U3Ahistory26.htm [Accessed 16/10/2020].
  • Start of the suffrage movement. (no date) Available from https://www.parliament.uk/about/living-heritage/transformingsociety/electionsvoting/womenvote/overview/startsuffragette-/ [Accessed 16/10/2020].
  • The Campaign for women's suffrage. (no date) Available from https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize/guides/zy2ycdm/revision/4 [Accessed 17/10/2020].
  • The campaign for women's suffrage: an introduction. (2018) Available from https://www.bl.uk/votes-for-women/articles/the-campaign-for-womens-suffrage-an-introduction [Accessed 17/10/2020].
  • The campaign for women's suffrage: key figures. (2018) Available from https://www.bl.uk/votes-for-women/articles/womens-suffrage-key-figures [Accessed 17/10/2020].
  • The Edwardian Era. (2016) Available from https://www.intriguing-history.com/the-edwardian-era/ [Accessed 16/10/2020].
  • The Gibson Girl's America: Drawings by Charles Dana Gibson. (no date) https://www.loc.gov/exhibits/gibson-girls-america/overview.html [Accessed 18/10/2020].
  • Thorpe, V. (2013) Truth behind the death of suffragette Emily Davison is finally revealed. Available from https://www.theguardian.com/society/2013/may/26/emily-davison-suffragette-death-derby-1913 [Accessed 16/10/2020].
  • Women get the vote. (no date) Available from https://www.parliament.uk/about/living-heritage/transformingsociety/electionsvoting/womenvote/overview/thevote/#:~:text=Representation%20of%20the%20People%20Act,of%20women%20in%20the%20UK. [Accessed 17/10/2020].

Figures:

  • Figure 1 - Prahl, A. (2019) Biography of Edward VII, Britain's Peaceful Playboy King. Available from https://www.thoughtco.com/king-edward-vii-biography-4173865 [Accessed 15/10/2020].
  • Figure 2 - Meares, H. (2019) Orville and Wilbur Wright: The Brothers who changed aviation. Available from https://www.biography.com/news/orville-wilbur-wright-brothers-first-flight [Accessed 15/10/2020]. 
  • Figure 3 - Wright Airplanes. (no date) Available from http://www.wright-brothers.org/Information_Desk/Just_the_Facts/Airplanes/Wright_Airplanes.htm [Accessed 16/10/2020]. 
  • Figure 4 - Women's Franchise League 1889 - 1903. (no date) Available from http://hist259.web.unc.edu/womensfranchiseleague/ [Accessed 17/10/2020].
  • Figure 5 - Gibson Girl. (no date) Available from https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Gibson_Girl [Accessed 18/10/2020]
  • Figure 6 - Bulo, K. (2018) The Gibson Girl: The turn of the century's "ideal" woman, independent and feminine. Available at https://www.thevintagenews.com/2018/03/01/gibson-girl/ [Accessed 18/10/2020].
  • Figure 7 - Smith, S. (no date) Camille Clifford: The 'Gibson Girl' Promise Fulfilled. Available at https://www.rockwell-center.org/essays-illustration/camille-clifford-the-gibson-girl-promise-fulfilled/ [Accessed 18/10/2020].
  • Figure 8 - Heichelbech, R. (no date) The First Gibson Girl and the "Trial of the Century". Available from https://dustyoldthing.com/evelyn-nesbit-gibson-girl/ [Accessed 18/10/2020].
  • Figure 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 - Brown, J. (2020) York College
  • Figure 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26 - Brown, J. (2020) Leeds.

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