Period Hair - 1940s

The 1940s were the times of World War II. This had a massive effect on everyones lives. Most men were away at war, whilst the women stayed back home. This then created a shortage of workers, so the women took on the jobs in heavy industry and wartime production plants. This was a big and necessary step, as most women were either house wives or worked in the service industry. This created a change in the social norm that some men were not pleased with, as this was traditionally 'their' jobs, and their roles. Some men were even threatened by this, as it threatened to ruin the ideal of men being the providers and women being the homemakers. (Nationalww2museum, no date).

Figure 1 - Rosie the Riveter (Nationalww2museum, no date)

Figure 2 - "Chippers" Women War Workers (Nationalww2museum, no date)

Rationing was introduced as most materials and ingredients were needed in the war efforts, but whatever else was left, was given to civilians. Therefore, it was important to ensure it was distributed evenly. This was mostly with meats and foods such as sugar, milk and butter, however shampoo eventually made its way to the ration list, as did soap. Women began wearing hairnets or scarves, to cover their hair when they couldn't wash it, but also to secure their hair back so that it wouldn't get trapped in the machinery when they went to work. (Beautifulwithbrains, no date).

Figure 3 - Factory Poster (Kshs, no date)

Not everyone went to work in factories however, some women went to work in the country in the farming industry. They would do tasks such as milking cows, lambing, gathering crops and farm maintenance work. (BBC, no date). This was part of the Women's Land Army, which actually came from World War One, but was reinstated not long before the start of World War Two. The women who volunteered for these jobs were nicknamed 'Land Girls'.

Figure 4 - Women's Land Army poster (Iwm, no date)

Figure 5 - Land Girls (Express, 2013)

Despite the state of the world at this time, the 1940s produced some recognisable, iconic looks. The most notable being the Victory Rolls.

Figure 6 - Betty Grable Victory Rolls look (Deadlyisthefemale, 2017)

Figure 7 - Women at work wearing Victory Rolls (Deadlyisthefemale, 2017)

It is not clear exactly how this style originated, however it is associated often with certain manoeuvres by fighter planes, as they would create an exhaust roll. It is believed that this is where the name of Victory Roll came from, and it allowed women to show their support for the soldiers. (Deadlyisthefemale, 2017).

Victory Rolls could be styled in many different ways - rolls with loose wavy hair, rolls leading into a ponytail, with a head scarf - it was very versatile.

Figure 8 - Victory rolls into a ponytail (Verityvintagestudio, 2016)

Figure 9 - Victory rolls with loose hair (Vintagedancer, 2017)

This wasn't the only look to come out of this decade, however, another popular look was the 'Poodle' look. This consisted of the hair being curled and piled on top of the head.

Figure 10 - Poodle hairstyle (Gomez, L. no date)

Figure 11 - Poodle hairstyle (Butterflylovessnapdragons, 2014)

Figure 12 - Poodle hairstyle (Theuglydame, 2016)

Figure 13 - Poodle hairstyle (Nurmi, N. 2018)

Men's hair however, was was always kept perfectly neat, they typically took frequent trips to the barber. Their hair was shortened on the sides and longer on top. (Vintagedancer, 2017). The trend of slick back hair continues into this decade, although men weren't afraid of having a bit of a wave to their hair.

Figure 14 - Men's hair (Frockflicks, 2019)

Figure 15 - Men's hair (Vintagedancer, 2017)

Most men appear to keep themselves fully shaven in terms of facial hair, some however, would grow a moustache with the rest of the face bare. 

Figure 16 - Zachary Scott moustache (IMDb, no date)

A period drama that shows some of these styles is the BBC's 'Land Girls' (2009 - 2011). It follows the lives of four girls who moved away from home to do their part in the Women's Land Army. 

Figure 17 - 'Land Girls' (2009 - 2011) (BBC, 2009)

Figure 18 - 'Land Girls' (2009 - 2011) (BBC, 2011)

Figure 19 - 'Land Girls' (2009 - 2011) (BBC, 2009)

In the above figures, it is clear to see that different styles have been used and how they could have been styled. It shows that they were very practical styles for the work that they were now doing.

Previous Attempts at 1940s hair

This style has previously been attempted on a separate course. The style that was done was Victory Rolls.

Figure 20 - Victory Rolls (Brown, J. 2017)

Figure 21 - Victory Rolls (Brown, J. 2017)

This was achieved using heated rollers in a brick set at the back of the head, and a directional set at the front. While the waves came out really nicely, the Victory Rolls could be so much better. There is not enough back-brushing there to create the right structure, considering how long the hair is. The rolls could also be a lot tighter.

Setting and styling the wig

The style was attempted was the Poodle look. This wasn't set as such, it was achieved using tongs to curl the hair. The back of the hair was pulled into a ponytail, while the front was curled, and then pinned up.

Figure 22 - Poodle look (Brown, J. 2020)

Figure 23 - Poodle look (Brown, J. 2020)

Figure 24 - Poodle look (Brown, J. 2020)

Figure 25 - Poodle look (Brown, J. 2020)

All of the hair was curled and pinned into place to create this look. It's quite an easy look to achieve, you just have to be mindful of the placement of the curls to create the shape you're looking for.

-Jess

References:

• 1940s Men's hairstyles & facial hair. (2017) Available from https://vintagedancer.com/1940s/1940s-mens-hairstyles-facial-hair/ [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Beauty History: Women and cosmetics during World War II. (no date) Available from https://www.beautifulwithbrains.com/beauty-history-women-and-cosmetics-during-world-war-ii/#:~:text=Cosmetics%20in%20Europe%20during%20World%20War%20II&text=The%20little%20left%20over%20for,to%20get%20it)%20was%20rationed. [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Fact file: Women's Land Army. (no date) Available from http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/ww2peopleswar/timeline/factfiles/nonflash/a6652055.shtml [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Gender on the Home Front. (no date) Available from https://www.nationalww2museum.org/war/articles/gender-home-front#:~:text=and%20Records%20Administration.-,World%20War%20II%20changed%20the%20lives,and%20men%20in%20many%20ways.&text=Most%20women%20labored%20in%20the,had%20traditionally%20belonged%20to%20men. [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Hair and makeup Monday: The history of Victory Rolls! (2017) Available from https://deadlyisthefemale.com/history-victory-rolls/ [Accessed 13/11/2020].

Bibliography:

• 1940s Important News and Events, Key technology fashion and popular culture. (no date) Available from http://www.thepeoplehistory.com/1940s.html [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• 1940's mens hair - 4 popular 1940's haircuts & how to style in 2017. (2017) Available from https://regalgentleman.com/blogs/blog/1940s-mens-hair-3-popular-haircuts-from-the-era-how-to-style-cut-in-2017 [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• 1940s Men's hairstyles & facial hair. (2017) Available from https://vintagedancer.com/1940s/1940s-mens-hairstyles-facial-hair/ [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Amadeo, K. (2020) The economic impact of World War II. Available from https://www.thebalance.com/world-war-ii-economic-impact-4570917 [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Cornwell, B. (no date) 1940s Hairstyles for men - 25 historic manly cuts. Available from https://nextluxury.com/mens-style-and-fashion/1940s-hairstyles-for-men/ [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Rosenberg, J. (2020) The war years: A timeline of the 1940s. Available from https://www.thoughtco.com/1940s-timeline-1779951 [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Wilson, S. (no date) Rationing in World War Two. Available from https://www.historic-uk.com/CultureUK/Rationing-in-World-War-Two/#:~:text=Rationing%20began%20on%208th%20January,food%20ration%20for%20an%20adult%3A&text=Other%20meat%20value%20of%201,pence%20(equivalent%20to%202%20chops) [Accessed 13/11/2020].

Figures:

• Figure 1, 2 - Gender on the Home Front. (no date) Available from https://www.nationalww2museum.org/war/articles/gender-home-front#:~:text=and%20Records%20Administration.-,World%20War%20II%20changed%20the%20lives,and%20men%20in%20many%20ways.&text=Most%20women%20labored%20in%20the,had%20traditionally%20belonged%20to%20men. [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 3 - Fighting fit in the factory. (no date) Available from https://www.kshs.org/index.php?url=km/items/view/209485 [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 4 - What was the Women's Land Army? (no date) Available from https://www.iwm.org.uk/history/what-was-the-womens-land-army [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 5 - A tribute to the Land Girls of the Second World War. (2013) Available from https://www.express.co.uk/comment/expresscomment/378336/A-tribute-to-the-Land-Girls-of-the-Second-World-War [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 6, 7 - Hair and makeup Monday: The history of Victory Rolls! (2017) Available from https://deadlyisthefemale.com/history-victory-rolls/ [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 8 - April Tutorial - 1940s Hairstyle with scarf, three ways. (2016) Available from https://verityvintagestudio.typepad.com/my-blog/2016/04/april-tutorial-1940s-hairstyle-with-scarf-three-ways.html [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 9 - 1940s Hairstyles - History of women's hairstyles. (2017) Available from https://vintagedancer.com/1940s/1940s-hairstyles-history-womens-hairstyles/ [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 10 - Gomez, L. (no date) Lovely poodle updo. Available from https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/89509111321687058/ [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 11 - Half poodle hair tutorial. (2014) Available from http://butterflylovessnapdragons.blogspot.com/2014/01/half-poodle-hair-tutorial.html?m=1 [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 12 - The Poodle: A 40s Hairstyle. (2016) Available from https://theuglydame.blogspot.com/2016/12/the-poodle-40s-hairstyle.html [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 13 - Nurmi, N. (2018) 1950's poodle: A vintage hair tutorial. Available from http://noellenurmi.blogspot.com/2018/09/1950s-poodle-vintage-hair-tutorial_6.html [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 14 - How contemporary hairstyles affect historical costume movies: the 1940s, part 1. (2019) Available from http://www.frockflicks.com/how-contemporary-hairstyles-affect-historical-costume-movies-the-1940s-pt-1/ [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 15 - 1940s Men's hairstyles & facial hair. (2017) Available from https://vintagedancer.com/1940s/1940s-mens-hairstyles-facial-hair/ [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 16 - Zachary Scott. (no date) Available from https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0779923/ [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 17 - Land Girls: Summer Strallen is Nancy. (2009) Available at http://www.bbc.co.uk/pressoffice/pressreleases/stories/2009/08_august/18/land_girls6.shtml [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 18 - Selin lands starring role in BBC TV drama Land Girls. (2011) Available at http://news.bbc.co.uk/local/threecounties/hi/people_and_places/newsid_9367000/9367923.stm [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 19 - Land Girls: introduction. (2009) Available from http://www.bbc.co.uk/pressoffice/pressreleases/stories/2009/08_august/18/land_girls.shtml [Accessed 13/11/2020].
• Figure 20, 21 - Brown, J. (2017) York College.
• Figure 22, 23, 24, 25 - Brown, J. (2020) York College.